Hey Garden Bestie!
Fall gardening is one of the best ways to extend your growing season, enjoy fresh food into the cooler months, and build soil for the year ahead.
Here are five crops to plant this fall, especially if you're in zones 7–10.
Collards show out in cool weather, they’re super frost-tolerant and can handle temps as low as 20°F. And the magic? A light frost actually makes the leaves more tender and gives them a natural sweetness. It’s like the cold gives them character!
But what really makes collards a staple in my garden (and on my plate) is how good they are for you. They’re loaded with vitamins A, C, and K, so they support your immune system, eye health, and bone strength. Plus, they’re rich in fiber and antioxidants that help with digestion and reduce inflammation. It’s the kind of leafy green that keeps your gut happy and your body feeling nourished.
My go-to varieties are Morris Heading, Georgia Southern, Alabama Blue, and Champion (click each name for a link to seeds). If you haven’t grown collards before, this fall is the perfect time to give them a spot in your garden, and in your wellness routine.
When to Plant:
Start seeds indoors 10–12 weeks before your first expected fall frost. Transplant outdoors 8-10 weeks before that frost date. Check The Old Farmer’s Almanac and enter your ZIP code to find your estimated frost date, but stay flexible, as weather can shift! Remember the frost dates provided by the Old Farmer’s Almanac are ESTIMATES based on historical weather data.
Companion planting is the practice of growing different plants near each other to enhance growth, improve pest control, and increase overall garden productivity. Some plants can naturally repel pests, attract beneficial insects, or improve soil health for their neighbors. Pair collards with aromatics like onion, garlic, or marigolds to help deter pests like cabbage worms and aphids. In this video, I discuss a layout for collards that includes the use of these companions.
Add granular all-purpose fertilizer and mycorrhizae to the transplant hole.
Fertilize every two weeks with a liquid fish emulsion-based fertilizer once your plants are established.
Plant 1 per square foot or 1 per 5-gallon container/grow bag (increase to 7+ gallons for larger varieties like Morris Heading or Georgia Southern).
Pick outer leaves as needed, leaving the center growth intact for continuous harvest. Smaller leaves are more tender, but it’s all up to your taste! In this video I show you exactly how to harvest the outer leaves of the collard plant so it can keep growing through the season.
Like collards, cabbage thrives in the fall and gets sweeter with cooler temps, which makes it a win in the garden. But lately, I’ve been paying closer attention to gut health, especially with the rise in colorectal cancer in young adults. As much as I love growing beautiful food, I love knowing why it’s good for me even more.
Cabbage is full of fiber that keeps your digestive system moving and supports a healthy gut microbiome. It’s also packed with natural compounds that help reduce inflammation and feed the good bacteria in your belly. Real talk, taking care of your gut is a form of self-care, and cabbage is one of those crops that does more than just fill your plate. It nourishes from the inside out.
A few great varieties of Cabbage include Early Jersey Wakefield, Green Express, Red Acre, and Purple Savory. For small space gardener in particular I recommend growing the smaller Asian cabbages, check out: China Star, Feng Qing Pak Choi, China Express, and Joi Choi.
Start seeds indoors between late July and August, depending on your frost date. Transplant outdoors 10 to 12 weeks before your first fall frost date.
Cabbage requires consistent feeding and steady moisture to develop tight heads. I recommend applying a fish emulsion-based liquid fertilizer every 2 to 3 weeks once the transplants are well established, typically about 4 to 5 weeks after planting.
Choose a variety based on your growing window, some need up to 100 days to mature.
Space plants about 18 inches apart to allow for head formation.
Harvest when heads are firm and tight. Cut at the base with a sharp knife, and remove the outer leaves. You can often get a second, smaller head from the same plant!
“Kale is a superfood” the phrase I started hearing all the time back in the 2010s when everyone was juicing everything. But seriously, kale is that girl, packed with a ton of nutrition and perfect for the fall garden.
It gets sweeter as the temps drop and can even survive a light snow in some regions. It’s one of the most forgiving leafy greens to grow, especially if you're just getting started.
Nutritionally, kale is doing the most in the best way. It’s rich in vitamins A, C, and K, plus fiber, calcium, and antioxidants. That means it supports everything from your immune system and bones to your gut and skin. And since I’ve been paying more attention to gut health lately, kale definitely has a seat at my table, and in my garden.
Some of kale varieties you should consider growing: Dazzling Blue Kale, Dwarf Siberian Kale, Black Magic Lacinato “Dinosaur”, Scarlet Kale.
When to Plant:
You can direct sow kale seeds or transplant seedlings about 6–8 weeks before your first expected frost. If you want a head start, go ahead and start them indoors a bit earlier. One of the things I love most about growing kale is how versatile it is, you can harvest the baby leaves for salads or smoothies, or let it grow to full size for hearty meals. No matter when you pick it, kale shows up with flavor and nutrients every step of the way.
Try growing kale with nasturtiums or rosemary to deter cabbage loopers and aphids.
Use an all-purpose granular fertilizer at transplant.
About 4 weeks after transplanting, fertilize every two weeks with a liquid fish emulsion based fertilizer
Space about 1 plant per square foot or 1 per 5-gallon container.
Harvest lower leaves regularly and leave the central growth untouched. Kale is cut-and-come-again friendly, meaning it will keep growing as long as the weather stays cool.
Garlic is one of those crops that quietly does everything right. You plant it in the fall, forget about it through winter, and by summer, you’ve got beautiful bulbs ready to harvest. It’s low-maintenance, stores like a dream, and brings bold, rich flavor to your meals.
But garlic’s not just working in the kitchen, it’s also a garden protector. It naturally repels pests like aphids and cabbage loopers, making it an amazing companion plant for your collards, kale, and cabbage. Think of it as your brassicas' personal bodyguard.
I like to use seed garlic from trusted nurseries so I can choose the exact variety I want. That way, I know I’m getting quality cloves that are right for my growing zone.
There are two main types of garlic:
Hardneck: These have fewer but larger cloves and grow a flowering stalk called a scape (which is edible!). They need cold winter temps to form bulbs, so they’re best suited for gardeners in zones 1–6.
Softneck: These are more flexible (literally) and have more cloves per bulb. They don’t require a deep chill, making them ideal for zones 7–10.
When to Plant:
Plant your garlic about 4–6 weeks before your ground freezes, for many regions, that’s between October and early November. Timing matters, especially depending on the type you’re planting.
If you’re growing hardneck garlic (best for zones 1–6), that fall planting window is essential because it needs cold temps to form good-sized bulbs.
For those in zones 7–10, softneck garlic is your go-to, it doesn’t need the same chill, but fall planting still gives it a strong start before spring growth kicks in. Stay tuned for a newsletter dedicated to all things garlic in the upcoming weeks!
Companion Plants:
Garlic pairs well with carrots, beets, spinach, and lettuce. It helps repel aphids and root maggots.
Separate cloves and plant root side down, about 2 inches deep and 4–6 inches apart.
Add compost and bone meal at planting time.
Mulch with straw or leaves to insulate through winter.
In summer, harvest when the lower leaves turn yellow. Cure in a dry, shady place for 2–3 weeks before storing.
Fall-planted onions (typically short-day or intermediate-day varieties in the South) will overwinter and give you a head start on spring! all-planted onions (typically short-day or intermediate-day varieties) will overwinter in the garden and give you a head start on spring. That means earlier harvests and stronger bulbs by the time warmer weather rolls around.
Here’s the thing: not all onions are the same, and knowing your growing zone and daylight hours makes all the difference.
Short-day onions (like ‘Yellow Granex’ or ‘Red Creole’) are perfect for folks in zones 7–10. They start bulbing when daylight hits about 10–12 hours, which makes them ideal for mild winters and early planting.
Intermediate-day onions are great for zones 6–7, where daylight lasts a bit longer but winters are still relatively mild.
Long-day onions are for gardeners in zones 5 and cooler. These should be planted in spring, not fall, since they need 14–16 hours of daylight to start bulbing.
Plant sets or seedlings in fall after temperatures cool but before a hard freeze. Aim for 4–6 weeks before your first frost.
Give your onions the space and nutrients they need to thrive!
Plant onion sets about 1 inch deep and 4–6 inches apart in rows, leaving about 12–18 inches between rows for good airflow and easy maintenance.
Start with a balanced fertilizer at planting to support root development. Then, side-dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer every 2–3 weeks as they grow to help those bulbs size up nicely. Just be sure to stop fertilizing once the bulbs begin to swell, that’s when all the energy shifts downward.
Bonus tip: Keep them consistently watered, especially during dry spells, but avoid soaking the soil. Onions don’t like to sit in soggy conditions.
You’ll know your onions are ready when the tops naturally fall over and start to yellow or dry out. That’s your sign to stop watering and let them finish curing in the soil for a few days.
After pulling them up, let the onions cure in a shaded, well-ventilated spot (like a covered porch or shaded patio) for about 2–3 weeks until the outer skins are papery and the necks are dry. Then they’re ready for trimming and long-term storage.
Want a Little Extra Support for Your Fall Garden?
As we head into fall, a season full of planting opportunities, it’s the perfect time to get organized and stay inspired. If you’ve ever wished for a little help choosing what to grow, when to plant it, and how to care for it, the HOSS Gardening Club might be just what you need.
It’s a monthly subscription box designed to support gardeners all year long, and it’s especially helpful during seasonal transitions like fall. Each box is packed with curated seeds, helpful tools, and expert tips to keep your garden thriving, no matter your experience level.
There are three tiers to choose from based on your garden size and goals:
Seeds of the Month (~$15/month): Perfect for beginners or container gardeners—includes 4 seasonal seed packets, a garden club magazine, and a fun sticker.
Small Sprouts (~$40/month): Great for backyard gardeners, includes the seeds, magazine, plus 1–3 gardening tools or supplies, access to online courses, and club discounts.
Heavy Harvesters (~$80/month): Ideal for large garden plots, everything from the other tiers, plus more seeds, more tools, and exclusive webinars with the HOSS team.
I love that it gives you structure, education, and a little garden joy delivered right to your door.
Which of these veggies are you planting this fall? Reply to this email and share your garden plans, I’d love to hear what’s growing in your corner of the world. 🌱
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